From the beginning Mary Kantrantzou’s collections were admired only by conceptual fashion fans but in recent season she has become the discovery of the largest industry. Brave, often extremely realistic graphic pattern (some commentators have called Mary “the Leonardo of Photoshop”) and surrealistic images captured many people’s attention.
Mary Katrantzou is one of the few designers who managed to extend the same uniqueness and surprise. This year’s fall/winter collection impressed by the simple pattern in textile combinations and symmetry, creating something new which would be surprising in a good way. However, playing not only with fabrics but also the shear and the contrast, she is able to make a collection more vivid, modern and elegant.
It is interesting how Mary Katrantzou had dealt with forms. Since she has already tested the hourglass and the peplum silhouettes, this time designer was interested in the silhouettes of times of Queen Elizabeth I – strongly emphasized the trunk and the widening a skirt, on which it is extremely difficult to establish any pattern. It is great that Katrantzou infused a little softness into very architectural work but also the thin silky fabric, ribbon, or even made a baby-doll type of skirt. It is strange to see the pants – generally uncommon to M.Katrantzou – one of them even looks like a magnified pencil.
It is worth paying attention to the symbolism of the collection, which, apparently, is much simpler than you might think would be. For example, shades of blue symbolizes the steel, green colour means the grass and yellow – pencils. Mary Katrantzou managed to connect many colours, shapes and prints in a way where everything looks just amazing.